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P E P T I D E S

Why  They’re  Good  for  Your  Skin  and  How  to Get  More  of  Them

Cream

What are peptides

 

Peptides are organic chemical compounds that are formed from the joining of two or more amino acid molecules joined by a peptide bond. The latest research shows that it is possible to produce peptides identical to those produced by our body (biomimetic peptides). Applied topically, they are safe for us and do not cause allergic reactions.

 

We can divide them into several groups:

- oligopeptides - have from 2 to 9 amino acids (di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa-, hepta-, octa- and nanopeptides)

- polypeptides - here the chain consists of 10-100 amino acids

- proteins - over 100 amino acids

How do peptides work

 

In many cases, peptides are information transmitters, the presence of which determines the specific activity of cells, and if we already know the active biological nature of peptides, we can divide them into relaxing, transporting and stimulating. In cosmetics, relaxant peptides are most often used. Why? Because they relax the muscles responsible for the formation of wrinkles. They block the flow of impulses from the nerve cells in the skin to the muscles. Therefore, you may also hear such a name: neuropeptides and then you will already know what it is about.

Peptides are chains of amino acids that are fragments of the skin's essential proteins: collagen, elastin, and keratin. They're responsible for how plump our skin is, how well it holds in place.

Naturally in the body, peptides show up to build proteins in areas that need healing or support. When peptides are applied topically, they tell the skin to amp up its production of critical proteins that fight fine lines and loss of elasticity. The product is essentially tricking the skin into protein production.

Peptides are essentially signals to the proteins that give our skin its plumpness, bounce, and strength.

Make it Routine

We can find peptides in serums or moisturisers that target signs of aging.

This rich, velvety moisturizer promotes overall skin health and hydration, and is packed with peptides to work on signs of aging.

One More Thing!

Look for peptides in serums and moisturizers (products you leave on) from high quality brands. Steer away from peptide claims in products, like cleansers, that you wash off.

How Peptides in Your Skin Care Work

So if peptides are already present within the body, why do we need more of them? The answer, according to experts, is aging. Our body lose 1% of our remaining collagen per year after age 30.

Simply applying peptides onto skin doesn’t necessarily give more of them. How they work is a little more complex. Body sees these peptides as ‘signals’ that you need to heal, which tells your body to produce more collagen where you need it most. If you are healing from an injury in your ankle, those peptides will signal your body to focus its repair efforts in that joint. If your skin is aging prematurely, those peptides might signal your skin to boost its production of collagen and even hyaluronic acid, plumping up your skin and restoring a healthy skin barrier.  When you introduce peptides onto the skin in the form of a moisturizer or serum, it tricks the skin into thinking there’s been an injury or wound, and it stimulates our collagen-boosting processes.

Pros of the action and use of peptides in cosmetics

 

Firstly, it is non-invasive and without complications. Secondly, satisfying care needs, i.e. moisturizing, greasing, firming and reducing roughness. It is worth reaching for preparations containing peptides after Botox treatments in order to extend the therapy.

 

Another advantage is the fact that peptides can be combined, for example, with metal ions (copper) and obtain a wider spectrum of activity. The studies confirmed that the peptide modified in this way has the effect of accelerating the processes of regeneration and rebuilding of damaged tissues. What's more, it stimulates collagen synthesis better than vitamins C and A.

 

Different Types of Peptides

When it comes to skincare, not all peptides are created equal. While there are hundreds of peptides, there are specific peptides that are more efficacious for the skin than others. For example, carrier peptides deliver trace minerals to the skin to boost collagen, while enzyme inhibitor peptides work to slow down the skin’s natural breakdown of collagen. Signal peptides send messages to different parts of the skin to promote collagen, elastin and other proteins; and neurotransmitter peptides, touted as “Botox-like,” block the release of chemicals that cause the muscle contraction of expression lines, thus smoothing wrinkles.

Neurotransmitter Peptides 

Neurotransmitter peptides are found in injectables like Botox, and topical treatments - both work to relax your facial muscles so they don’t contract as much, helping reduce wrinkles.

Signal Peptides 

Signal peptides, or palmitoyl pentapeptides, are the most common with regard to skincare. They are known to stimulate the production of collagen, elastin and other structure proteins that make the skin appear firmer and fuller. 

Carrier Peptides 

Carrier peptides get their name from their role in delivering trace elements like copper and magnesium to the skin. Copper has been an especially popular ingredient in recent years for its ability to improve collagen production, thereby firming up the skin and enhancing elasticity. Copper complexes have also been proven to combat the appearance of photoaging skin by brightening age spots. 

Enzyme-Inhibitor Peptides 

As their name suggests, enzyme-inhibitor peptides work by putting the brakes on the body’s natural process of losing collagen. Peptides derived from rice proteins work to retain more collagen, while certain soy-derived peptides can help prevent pigmentation. 

How to Get More Peptides in Your Skincare Routine

When it comes to enhancing the skin I recommend getting peptides from topical skincare products. 

Finding the right product type can go a long way, too. For example, instead of choosing a peptide-enriched cleanser, I recommend opting for products that are not easily washed off the skin, like a moisturizer, eye cream or serum. I also suggests opting for products with copper peptides, which help not only generate collagen but also maintain the collagen you generate. Also look for products that include niacinamidevitamin C and antioxidants into the mix, in addition to peptides.

Once you find the right cream or serum for you, apply it to clean skin twice daily.

Aside from topical products, incorporating collagen-rich foods like bone broth and adding a best quality collagen supplement to your diet, can also work wonders for your skin.

 

What should you not pair with peptides

When it comes to layering peptides with other effective skin ingredients there are some popular ones that should be avoided.

Tretinoin

Vitamin C

AHAs/ BHAs such as glycolic acid and salicylic acid.

Don't mix these protiens with vitamin C. Copper peptides should not be used with vitamin C as they can oxidize Vitamin C and reduce its antioxidant effect. Instead, to achieve the maximum benefits of each ingredient split them between your morning and evening routine or use them on alternating days.

Retinol and Peptides, great couple

 

When you use retinol, you are also receiving the collagen-building effects of vitamin A. Additionally, retinol also works to improve the penetration of peptide creams and serums which can help improve skin firmness. When combined, you’ll improve the efficacy. 

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